Ghanaian Designer Shines on Milan Runway, Champions Diversity

Milan has once again become a focal point for fashion enthusiasts, highlighted recently by Ghanaian designer Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart as he made his runway debut during Milan Fashion Week. This event, supported by the efforts of Michelle Francine Ngonmo, the founder of the Afrofashion Association, underscored a significant moment in the ongoing journey toward greater representation of Black talent in the Italian fashion industry.

As the clock ticked down to Abbey-Hart’s debut, Ngonmo faced the logistical challenge of accommodating an overwhelming demand for attendance. Early in the morning, she and her team were busy preparing both the backstage area and the showroom to ensure everything was ready for the show. Ngonmo, who has dedicated her career to promoting the visibility of Africans and people of color in Italian fashion, founded the Afrofashion Association a decade ago to address the evident lack of representation in this sector.

Over the past ten years, the Afrofashion Association has worked with approximately 3,000 individuals, helping to place 92 of them in sustainable creative roles. Ngonmo emphasized that while this progress is commendable, it also reveals the extensive work that remains to be done. “Italy is no longer a white Italy, as imagined, but an Italy where there are many colors,” she noted.

The conversation surrounding racial diversity in the fashion industry gained momentum following the global Black Lives Matter movement, prompting designers like Stella Jean and Edward Buchanan to join forces with Ngonmo. Together, they called on fashion houses to transform expressions of support into meaningful action. Despite the industry’s reluctance to disclose diversity statistics, the absence of people of color in prominent roles has been glaringly clear, particularly in light of recent controversies surrounding racially insensitive designs.

Initially, the efforts under the slogan “We Are Made in Italy” (WAMI) brought attention to the need for diversity. However, as the industry faced economic challenges, financial backing for diversity initiatives dwindled. “At the time, there was a strong demand for engagement with creatives, especially Blacks in Italy,” Ngonmo reflected. “And then slowly the curtain closed because the attention was no longer on that.”

Ngonmo has chosen to focus her efforts on the institutions that have remained supportive, such as the Italian National Fashion Chamber. This organization not only backed WAMI but is also committed to providing platforms for emerging Black talents during Milan Fashion Week. Abbey-Hart, who heads his brand Victor-Hart, showcased a collection featuring predominantly denim looks earlier this month. His collaboration with Ngonmo has helped elevate his profile in the competitive fashion landscape.

Abbey-Hart’s journey into fashion began with the striking image of a Gucci bag he encountered in Ghana. “I realized I want to go where it was made. So that was the dream,” he shared, despite facing skepticism from many who focused on obstacles rather than opportunities. Relocating to Italy opened doors for him, allowing him to understand global design expectations.

The Milan Fashion Chamber’s president, Carlo Capasa, was present at Abbey-Hart’s show, wearing one of the designer’s striking denim coats. He acknowledged that projects with the Afrofashion Association have provided visibility and support for over 30 designers of color during recent fashion events. Capasa emphasized that while progress has been made, there is still much work to be done in terms of diversity and inclusion within the industry.

Abbey-Hart expressed the ongoing challenges he faces as a Black man in Italy, where he has lived for the past nine years. “Sometimes, before you even get to the room for the interview, you’ve been disqualified already. It’s really tough, and I want people to understand,” he stated. His message is clear: talent should be evaluated based on skills rather than race.

As Milan continues to evolve as a fashion capital, the contributions of individuals like Ngonmo and Abbey-Hart are crucial in shaping a more inclusive future. Their efforts not only promote diversity but also inspire a new generation of creatives to pursue their dreams in a historically exclusive industry.