Eleven Madison Park to Reinstate Meat After Vegan Experiment

Chef Daniel Humm is making headlines once again as he announces a significant shift at Eleven Madison Park (EMP), the world’s only three Michelin-starred vegan restaurant. After a two-year commitment to an all-plant-based menu, the famed New York City restaurant will reintegrate meat and seafood into its offerings starting on October 14, 2023. This decision marks a notable change for a restaurant that had previously sought to redefine fine dining through its vegan approach.

Humm initially transitioned EMP to a meatless menu in 2021. He described this decision as both a “creative leap and a climate imperative.” Following this, the restaurant earned acclaim as the first three Michelin-starred vegan establishment in 2022. Despite this groundbreaking achievement, Humm has acknowledged challenges that have arisen since the switch. In an interview with The New York Times, he expressed his concern that the exclusive focus on plant-based cuisine might have alienated some diners. “I didn’t realize that we would exclude people,” he stated.

The updated menu, priced at US$365 (approximately $504), will feature seven to nine courses, including the restaurant’s signature lavender-honey glazed duck. Although meat and seafood will return, an all-vegan option will remain available for patrons who prefer it.

In discussing the rationale behind this reversal, Humm highlighted financial factors as a contributing element. The restaurant has faced challenges, including sparse bookings for private events and declining wine sales. “It’s hard to get 30 people for a corporate dinner to come to a plant-based restaurant,” he noted, underscoring the difficulties in maintaining profitability with a solely vegan menu.

Humm’s announcement has drawn mixed reactions from the public. On social media, some users questioned the sincerity of the restaurant’s commitment to plant-based cuisine, with comments suggesting that the return to meat undermines the initial mission of changing the world through vegan cooking. One Instagram user remarked, “Oh, so the whole ‘changing the world with plant-based cuisine’ act was only good while it brought headlines and customers?”

Despite the backlash, Humm stands by his decision, emphasizing the importance of inclusivity in dining experiences. “I have some anxiety that people are going to say, ‘Oh, he’s a hypocrite,’ but I know that the best way to continue to champion plant-based cooking is to let everyone participate around the table,” he reiterated.

In contrast to Humm’s decision, another acclaimed chef, Alain Passard, is reinforcing his commitment to plant-based cuisine. Passard’s Paris restaurant, Arpège, recently became the first three Michelin-starred establishment in France to adopt an entirely plant-based menu in July 2023. He phased out red meat 24 years ago to focus on growing vegetables in his gardens. Passard expressed that his motivation stems from both environmental concerns and the culinary challenge of creating exceptional plant-based dishes.

Reflecting on his journey, Humm recognized the need for flexibility in his culinary approach. “The all-or-nothing approach was necessary to develop our expertise, but that, too, comes with its own limitations. As a chef, I want to continue to open paths, not close them,” he explained. As he approaches his 20th anniversary at EMP, this change signifies not only a shift in menu but also a broader evolution in his culinary philosophy.

Since its transition to a vegan menu, Eleven Madison Park has maintained its Michelin stars, although Humm’s offerings have received varied reviews. Some critics have noted that certain vegan dishes seemed to be inadequate substitutes for meat, suggesting a need for further refinement.

As Eleven Madison Park embarks on this new chapter, it stands at the intersection of culinary innovation and traditional dining expectations, illustrating the complexities of modern gastronomy. The restaurant’s ability to adapt while honoring its core principles will undoubtedly be closely observed by both patrons and industry critics alike.