Etwango’s Journey: From Dundee to Reunion and Uncertainty

In March 1887, Etwango’s time in Dundee came to a bittersweet conclusion after just five months. During his stay, he made notable strides in learning English and became a well-liked figure in the community. Described as a “very quiet and inoffensive man,” his exemplary conduct endeared him to many, and he received a warm send-off as he prepared to return to his home in the Arctic.

Capt. William Adams, a friend and supporter, raised approximately £17 for Etwango, which he used to purchase a rifle, a shotgun, and ammunition. Many well-wishers gathered at the docks to bid farewell, presenting him with gifts for himself and his family. A local minister even gave him a prayer book, although it was largely useless since he had not yet mastered English reading skills. Other gifts included a chest of tools, knives, and a significant donation of comforters and 200 yards of flannel for Etwango’s wife.

The ship, named Maud, made a stop in Lerwick, Shetland, to pick up additional crew members. There, Etwango again captured the public’s attention, appearing in traditional garb and showcasing his kayaking skills. The Shetland News referred to him as “the Eskimo chief” as he paddled around Victoria Pier, performing for an enthusiastic crowd of about 2,000 people. He also gave a demonstration of native songs and dances at the town hall alongside Capt. Adams, where he received further gifts for his family.

As the Maud continued its journey north, it faced ice-laden conditions in Melville Bay, prompting Capt. Adams to change course. Prior to reaching his home, Etwango exhibited signs of moodiness, possibly feeling a sense of reluctance to return to his former life after his experiences in Dundee. When the ship finally reached Durban Harbour, he and some shipmates traversed the ice to signal for fellow Inuit to welcome him back.

Upon reuniting with his family, Etwango’s emotions were mixed. He greeted his wife with an unemotional handshake, but his joy was evident when he saw his daughter. His wife’s demeanor softened upon discovering the gifts from Dundee, including a melodeon—a button accordion. To the astonishment of the crew, she played a familiar tune, “There’s Nae Luck about the House,” a Scottish song about a sailor’s return, followed by “The Keel Row.” The Dundee papers noted her musical talents, suggesting she might have learned to play several tunes during her time in Cumberland Sound.

Etwango also brought back a supply of petticoats for the women of the camp. Capt. Adams described him as “an honest, hard-working, warm-hearted fellow” who had become a proficient sailor and a skilled hunter. However, he sensed that the experiences in Dundee had given Etwango a “distaste for his former mode of life.” The man expressed a desire to return with his family to Dundee the following year, but this plan never materialized.

The following year, Capt. Adams returned to Davis Strait but found Etwango in a state of “dejection.” His wife’s stepmother had moved in after her husband’s death and had a negative influence on their family. Reportedly, she urged Etwango’s wife to leave for Cumberland Sound while he was away hunting, taking most of the gifts he had brought from Dundee. The Dundee Advertiser lamented, “It appears that the course of true love does not run any smoother among the Esquimaux than it does among more civilized people.”

Etwango, heartbroken and longing to return to Dundee, sought to board the Maud again. Yet, an uncle persuaded him to stay. The following year, adverse ice conditions thwarted Adams’ plans to reach Durban Harbour, and tragically, he passed away soon after. The fate of Etwango remains uncertain; it is unclear if his wife ever returned or whether he went back to Cumberland Sound. The historical record is silent on his later life.

This account is part of the occasional Taissumani column, which highlights events of historical significance. The column is authored by Kenn Harper, a historian with over 50 years of experience living in the Arctic and the author of notable works such as “Give Me Winter, Give Me Dogs: Knud Rasmussen and the Fifth Thule Expedition.” Feedback can be directed to [email protected].